I recently spent time in the wine country, discovering new wines, restaurants and places to stay.
One trip took us to Solage on the Silverado Trail in Calistoga, a high-end resort and spa with the prestigious restaurant Solbar, which earned a one-star rating from Michelin.
Solbar has a casual elegance, excellent service and healthful cuisine that combine for an enjoyable, unpretentious evening. The prices were certainly well within reason for the value received. A seasonal package, including room and a dinner and breakfast allowance, made it an even better deal.
Next door to Solage is the August Briggs Winery. August Briggs makes many different wines, and all those I sampled were of high quality. I was particularly impressed with the Charbono and the Cabernets.
I haven’t seen or tasted a Charbono since the Inglenook Cask days more than 30 years ago. It is the No. 2 varietal, behind Malbec, in production in Argentina. A big, black, peppery wine capable of aging up to 20 years, the Charbono is similar to the Dolcetto grape from Piedmont.
Farther down the Silverado Trail we found the Failla winery. It used to be the Failla Jordan winery, a combination of the owners’ last names. They dropped “Jordan” to make the other, bigger Jordan Winery happy.
Ehren Jordan is the winemaker, and he’s quite a good one. He makes the Turley Zins, is a partner and consultant at Neyers and produces wonderful Pinots, Syrahs and Chardonnays at Failla. I tasted the 2007 Hirsch Pinot, and it possessed a big, fruity nose, great cherry flavors and a tasty lingering finish. It sells for $60, but it is quite a wine.
Lunch at Cook, a small storefront restaurant in St. Helena, proved a treat. We shared a rabbit pâte sandwich and grilled brussels sprouts. By the look and smell of things, you couldn’t go wrong with anything on this reasonable menu.
Farmstead – owned by Ted Hall, who also owns Long Meadow Ranch – recently opened. Ted and I once spent an enjoyable afternoon opening and drinking a collection of First Growth 1945 Bordeaux.
The ranch produces most of the organic beef and produce and some of the wine used at Farmstead. I ordered a hamburger with an arugula salad and shredded cheese atop the patty and thinly sliced pickled cauliflower on the bottom. It was very tasty and different, and quite a mouthful.
Everyone seemed to enjoy their food – a good thing, because the noise level made hearing difficult at best. The restaurant is attractive and fun, with high ceilings, but it needs some acoustical work.
Another spot I have driven past but never stopped until this time is Gott’s Roadside (formerly Taylor’s), owned by winemaker Joel Gott. The varied menu features hamburgers, of course, but situated in St. Helena, guess what? It has a wine list! The restaurant looks like there should be waitresses with roller skates from that bygone era of drive-ins. Remember Johnny Mac’s in Redwood City?
Steve Hicks is a wine adviser and consultant who lives in Los Altos Hills. For more information, e-mail [email protected].
