My friend Bill Hockett has been on a quest for years to find ‘The’ Chardonnay at a bargain price. He has done his research and made purchases at Trader Joes, Beverages and More, Safeway and Draegers. I have decided it is time give him and the many of us who are also seeking this Holy Grail some help.
The 1994 and 95, vintages of California Chardonnay produced many spectacular wines and for a change not all of them are pricey. The Wine Spectator recently rated close to 500 of these wines and scored 193, 90 points or higher. Their scale is 95-100 is a classic; 90-94 is outstanding; and 80-89 is good to very good. The wines that were tasted by the Hicks family tasters were all scored between 86 and 93 by the Spectator. The prices ranged between $8.99 and $18.00. Seven of the bottles were purchased at our local Safeway which gives a 10% discount on 6 or more bottles and often has sales on individual wines. Draegers gives 10% off on a 12 bottle purchase. Beverages and More discounts individual bottles and does not give case discounts.
Not all the vintages tasted by the Spectator are now available so the current release was reviewed in the hope that one good wine will follow another. This is usually the case with large production wineries, unless it is a really poor vintage and 96 was another good year.
We had a three way tie for first:
Beringer 95, Napa Valley, $9.99. Oaky, well rounded with complex fruit. Safeway
Meridian 96, Santa Barbara, $8.99. Easy drinking, tropical fruit, very pleasant on the palate. Least expensive, into new vintage and still good, produced in large quantities and almost always available. Safeway
Carmenet 95, Sangiacomo Caneros, $17.00. Big complex, lots of oak and fruit, long finish that I thought slightly bitter. We tasted a 95, purchased at Draegers, now sold out, but 96 is at Beverages and More for $12.96.
Fourth: Meridian 95, Edna Valley Reserve, $12.59. This was my first choice as I have always liked that Edna Valley fruit and elegance combination. Great nose and sophisticated style. Safeway.
Fifth: Mirassou 96, Monterey, $10.99. Great showing, no grass here. Good clean well balanced, medium fruit. Safeway.
Sixth: Merryvale 95, Starmont, $18.00. Highest price, highest scoring in group, 93 and biggest disappointment. Slightly sour and bitter finish No longer available in the immediate area, sold out due to high score!
Seventh: Beaulieu 95, Caneros, $9.99. Flat, lacking in acid, not much personality. Safeway
Eighth: Rodney Strong 95, Chalk Hill, $14.99. Not much to it, slightly bitter. Safeway
Ninth: Hess Select 95, $10.99. I usually like this wine for the money. This bottle tasted as if it was blended with Gewurzt and it didn’t do any favors for the flavors.
I have made it to E Mail and I am looking forward to your comments and suggestions. I also am available to assist you with any of your wine problems. My address is: [email protected].
Steve Hicks is currently a wine advisor and consultant. He is a partner in a winery and has owned a wine shop. He is active in local, national and international food and wine societies.
